Orris Butter (15% irones) EO

Iris pallida Lam.

(9)

Our gorgeous Orris Butter (15% irones), a rare essential oil distilled from the rhizomes of Iris pallida, has a delicate, sweet, warm, powdery-floral aroma reminiscent of violet flowers with mellow woody undertones.

Size

Selected size SKU:730-015 - Orris Butter (15% irones) 15 grams

Tiny Sample 6 drops (6 drops)
$7.00
1 grams (1/28 oz)
$35.00
2 grams (1/14 oz)
$60.00
5 grams (3/17 oz)
$128.25
15 grams (1/2 oz.)
$326.00
30 grams (1 oz)
$592.50
50 grams (1 3/4 oz)
$922.50
$7.00
Details
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Documentation

Product Overview

Our gorgeous Orris Butter (15% irones), a rare essential oil distilled from the rhizomes of Iris pallida, has a delicate, sweet, warm, powdery-floral aroma reminiscent of violet flowers with mellow woody undertones. This material is very tenacious, has excellent fixative value, and displays its full and impressive strength and diffusion in the dry down, especially when it is highly diluted.

Orris Butter essential oil is often incorrectly referred to as Orris Concrète because it is semi-solid at room temperature. This is due to the presence of myristic acid, the primary constituent in Orris[1, 2], a saturated fatty acid that is also present in palm and coconut oils.

The essential oil of Iris pallida is highly prized as a fixative and base note in high-end natural perfumery and is obtained from rhizomes that have been in the ground for three years, then dried and aged for three more years.[3] Orris rhizomes contain precursors of molecules called irones, whose intense, powerful odor develops only with time. It is during this six-year period that oxidative processes begin to yield irones – the pinnacles of natural perfumery – from which the extraordinary fragrance of Orris arises, making the oil from these roots a favored ingredient in perfumery since the 18th century.[4] While Arctander asserts that fresh Orris rhizomes are practically odorless,[5] according to Guenther, "Fresh orris roots …possess a rather disagreeable "green" and "herby" odor; whereas the dried roots, upon aging, develop a faint violet odor."[6] The high price of Orris Butter is a consequence of labor intensity, low yield and lengthy growth and storage times. Nearly 1,000 tons of fresh Iris rhizomes yield 300 tons after peeling, drying and powdering. One ton of the powder produces a mere 2 kilos of Orris Butter![7]

1 Lawless, Julia. Encyclopedia of Essential Oils, 2013, pp. 155-6.

2 Arctander, Steffen. Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin, 1960, p. 496.

3 Ibid.

4 Industry communication.

5 Arctander, Steffen. Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin, 1960, p. 496.

6 Guenther, Ernest. The Essential Oils, Vol. I, 1948, p. 111.

7 Industry communication.

Blends Well With

5.0

9 Reviews

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Customer Reviews

Unexpected

Rating

Before sampling this, my only experience with iris was in designer fragrances like Dior Homme and the like. I knew they weren't using true orris butter but I've smelled some great imitations of natural scents before so I assumed I knew what iris smelled like. WRONG. In fragrances that use synthetics to recreate the scent it winds up smelling much more like waxy lipstick. The real deal is still waxy, but synthetics don't even come close. The opening is waxy and doesn't have much character of its own just yet. It smells expensive and soft in texture and it takes a lot to really come forward in a blend. After a while though it's character starts to show itself and it's very difficult to describe.

Review by Casiquire 9/16/2015

A TOTAL WIN

Rating

I LOVE this!!! This is one of those things you must sample. I tried this months ago and it blew me away. Perfect for rainy day themed or sea themed (I think). Very calming, almost euphoriant. It has this balance or powdery dryness of floral with the wet and aquatic root and earth feel. Very bridging. I strongly encourage to buy!! Makes ylang ylang complete fine smell like a pure aqua. Perfect for a watery note. Not salty or briny, just wet. So pretty! The depth it has on florals and patchouli is just fantastic!!

Review by MD 12/27/2014

Excellent

Rating

Melted it into jojoba oil and got about 10X at limits of liquidity at room temperature. Smells just great. Best source I've found.

Review by Leave Me Alone 8/25/2014

An ultrafine natural orris material with stunning iris / violet floralcy

Rating

Many do not know the pleasure of working with true Orris Butter but it is unlike any other material. The quality of this Orris Butter is stellar and the higher irones makes it smoother, more floral and truly buttery. It is wonderful in classical floral heart accords and as it is a rare and expensive material, the fact that eden sell it in small quantities allows amateur perfumers to experience the joy of this material.

Review by ArtScent 3/21/2013

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