Orris Butter (15% irones) EO

Iris pallida Lam.

(8)

Our gorgeous Orris Butter (15% irones), a rare essential oil distilled from the rhizomes of Iris pallida, has a delicate, sweet, warm, powdery-floral aroma reminiscent of violet flowers with mellow woody undertones.

Size

Selected size SKU:730-015 - Orris Butter (15% irones) 15 grams

Tiny Sample 6 drops (6 drops)
$6.00
1 grams (1/28 oz)
$30.75
2 grams (1/14 oz)
$54.50
5 grams (3/17 oz)
$116.00
15 grams (1/2 oz.)
$294.00
30 grams (1 oz)
$534.00
50 grams (1 3/4 oz)
$832.50
$6.00
Details
Solubility & Blending Suggestions
Suggested Resources
Safety Considerations
Certificates of Analysis (COA)
Documentation

Product Overview

Our gorgeous Orris Butter (15% irones), a rare essential oil distilled from the rhizomes of Iris pallida, has a delicate, sweet, warm, powdery-floral aroma reminiscent of violet flowers with mellow woody undertones. This material is very tenacious, has excellent fixative value, and displays its full and impressive strength and diffusion in the dry down, especially when it is highly diluted.

Orris Butter essential oil is often incorrectly referred to as Orris Concrète because it is semi-solid at room temperature. This is due to the presence of myristic acid, the primary constituent in Orris[1, 2], a saturated fatty acid that is also present in palm and coconut oils.

The essential oil of Iris pallida is highly prized as a fixative and base note in high-end natural perfumery and is obtained from rhizomes that have been in the ground for three years, then dried and aged for three more years.[3] Orris rhizomes contain precursors of molecules called irones, whose intense, powerful odor develops only with time. It is during this six-year period that oxidative processes begin to yield irones – the pinnacles of natural perfumery – from which the extraordinary fragrance of Orris arises, making the oil from these roots a favored ingredient in perfumery since the 18th century.[4] While Arctander asserts that fresh Orris rhizomes are practically odorless,[5] according to Guenther, "Fresh orris roots …possess a rather disagreeable "green" and "herby" odor; whereas the dried roots, upon aging, develop a faint violet odor."[6] The high price of Orris Butter is a consequence of labor intensity, low yield and lengthy growth and storage times. Nearly 1,000 tons of fresh Iris rhizomes yield 300 tons after peeling, drying and powdering. One ton of the powder produces a mere 2 kilos of Orris Butter![7]

1 Lawless, Julia. Encyclopedia of Essential Oils, 2013, pp. 155-6.

2 Arctander, Steffen. Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin, 1960, p. 496.

3 Ibid.

4 Industry communication.

5 Arctander, Steffen. Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin, 1960, p. 496.

6 Guenther, Ernest. The Essential Oils, Vol. I, 1948, p. 111.

7 Industry communication.

8 Lawless, Alec. Artisan Perfumery or Being Led by the Nose, 2009, p. 74.

9 Tisserand, Robert and Rodney Young. Essential Oil Safety, 2nd ed., 2014, p. 378.

Blends Well With

$457.75 / 15 ml
$9.25 / 15 ml
$13.00 / 15 ml
$109.00 / 15 g
$513.50 / 15 ml
$103.00 / 15 ml
$75.50 / 15 g
$224.25 / 15 g
$57.00 / 15 g
$185.75 / 15 ml

5.0

8 Reviews

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Customer Reviews

Can't Perfume Without It

Rating

This orris is incredible. It can be tricky to work with because it is solid at room temp, but when paired with other earthy notes like Mitti, Carrot, Vetiver... you can get something unlike anything else out there. Highly recommend.

Review by Kay 11/2/2019

Ethereal

Rating

I am so blessed to have had the opportunity to sample this material. It is powerful yet delicate, earthy yet clean. It doesn't quite knock you off your feet by first whiff-but once you get acquainted with it you can tell it something very special. Thank you Eden botanicals for allowing us to purchase this in small amounts so it can be affordable to small business owners like myself

Review by Tina 8/13/2017

..now I get it

Rating

I've put off purchasing this in favor of other ingredients, as I thought (as a gardener) I knew what it would smell like. Now, I'm so glad I took the plunge! Yes, this is the waxy note so recognizable in women's cosmetics. But it's SO MUCH MORE! Earthy, pleasantly cool, dry, and rich in its pure form. And very radiant, smooth, slightly sweet, and almost magical in a dilution or blend. Maintains its presence well with other things, and is a fantastic "secret ingredient" when paired with top notes. Worth every penny- sample and see!

Review by John Pal 2/6/2017

If you can have only one (floral) fixative, this is it

Rating

Over the course of 6 years or so, I've hoarded every grain of Eden sample of this product. It is the first note to come to mind each blend I attempt (like, can orris butter be in the blend PLEASE?) although I only rarely add it. Recently I splurged on a larger purchase. The first scent out of the bottle was knock-me-over "sweet earth." The cool, powdery violet note I love so much opened immediately after. It stays true on the scent stick for many days. Last summer I tried a composition, based on Prof. Dussauce' 1868 publication for perfumers, which featured orris. A couple of months later I found the test strip-- after all other notes faded, the orris butter was still clearly detected on the scent strip. Now THAT'S tenacity!

Review by DrJeanPD 9/19/2015

Unexpected

Rating

Before sampling this, my only experience with iris was in designer fragrances like Dior Homme and the like. I knew they weren't using true orris butter but I've smelled some great imitations of natural scents before so I assumed I knew what iris smelled like. WRONG. In fragrances that use synthetics to recreate the scent it winds up smelling much more like waxy lipstick. The real deal is still waxy, but synthetics don't even come close. The opening is waxy and doesn't have much character of its own just yet. It smells expensive and soft in texture and it takes a lot to really come forward in a blend. After a while though it's character starts to show itself and it's very difficult to describe.

Review by Casiquire 9/16/2015

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