5 min read
Blue Oils: High Performance Meets Beauty
Written By: Robin Lander
In the world of formulation, ingredients that combine efficacy with visual appeal are highly prized, and blue oils are among the most treasured. With their vibrant hues and herbaceous aromas, these essential oils containing a blue compound known as azulene offer both performance and a brilliant natural tint. Azulene is renowned in the cosmetics industry for its calming benefits and antioxidant properties, making blue oils sought-after ingredients in premium skincare.
Whether you're crafting a calming facial oil, post-sun care or luxurious body balm, blue oils not only enhance your formula’s functionality, but they also add a sensory and visual signature to elevate your product. Perfumers and aromatherapists alike value the sweet-herbal freshness and clarity they impart while adding depth and complexity to compositions. In this article, we’ll explore the unique qualities of these blue-toned botanicals and why they’re worth a spot in your formulation toolkit.
What is Azulene?
Azulene is an organic compound known for its distinctive inky blue color and unusual chemical structure. Although it occurs naturally in some essential oils, especially those from flowers in the Asteraceae family, it is not present in the raw plant material. When these botanicals are steam distilled, the heat and pressure break down colorless sesquiterpenes such as matricin and transform them into entirely new, vivid blue compounds known as chamazulene and guaiazulene – both azulene derivatives with the same skin calming properties.
Naturally, some oils contain more of these azulene derivatives than others, leading to beautiful variations of blue. Let’s review the options, starting with those with the highest content, including our newest addition, a very special Blue Yarrow.
Yarrow, Blue – Organic (High Chamazulene)
Chamazulene content: approximately 17%Aroma: sweet, fresh, and green-herbaceous with a woody and somewhat camphoraceous note that becomes sweeter in the drydown.Benefits: highly valued in revitalizing skincare, muscle and joint rubs, chest rubs, and women’s blends. When used in a diffuser or aromatherapy inhaler, it can uplift the spirit and promote an ambiance of calm. Suggested Use: skin serums, creams, body and massage oils, after-waxing care, after-sun care, and targeted preparations for dry, sensitive and mature skin.Perfumery: used sparingly, Yarrow, Blue - Organic (High Chamazulene) lends intriguing fresh, herbaceous facets to middle and top note accords and blends well with woody, citrus, green, and coniferous aromas.Tansy, Blue/Tansy, Blue - Organic
Chamazulene content: ranges from 4.5-14%Aroma: highly aromatic, warm, bitter-green, and herbaceous with softly diffusive camphor top notes and a warm, woody-herbaceous drydown.Benefits: often referred to as ‘Moroccan Blue Chamomile’ among aromatherapy enthusiasts, its aroma opens and clarifies the senses. Ideal for overactive skin.Suggested Use: pair with Helichrysum in a carrier oil like Rosehip Seed CO2 to improve skin tone and the appearance of sun-exposed skin. Add to skincare formulas of all types, post-workout massage blends, joint rubs, outdoor sprays, aromatherapy inhalers, or whenever a blue hue is desired.Perfumery: both Tansy, Blue and Tansy, Blue - Organic are tenacious top to middle notes that add interesting and original nuances to fantasy, chypres, and fougère compositions.Chamomile, Blue
Chamazulene content: ranges from 2-5%Aroma: strong, sweet-warm, and richly herbaceous with a slight fresh fruit undertone and a mellow woody-herbaceous and tobacco-like drydown.Benefits: this is the botanical known as German Chamomile, one of the most widely used herbs in the world for its comforting aroma and calming qualities.Suggested Use: combine with Lavender in preparations for dry, sensitive, or overreactive skin, after-sun care, diaper care, joint massage, and nighttime blends. Wonderful in belly rubs, hot or cold compresses, or added to relaxing baths.Perfumery: small amounts Chamomile, Blue offers a warm, rich, tenacious undertone that blends well with citruses, florals, and resins.Cypress, Blue
Guaiazulene content: typically <0.5%Aroma: sweet, fresh, fruity, mildly licorice-like, and balsamic with a resinous, faintly smoky undertone.Benefits: traditionally used in incense and body care in Australia, the reassuring and clarifying aroma is helpful for overactive and sun-exposed skin, lip care, and muscle rubs.Suggested Use: cosmetic formulations such as facial cleansers, body washes, after shave, and outdoor sprays, as well as aromatherapy blends for meditation, bedtime, and freshening the air.Perfumery: use Cypress, Blue as a fixative top to middle note in cologne and floral compositions, it complements citrus, resins and fruity or woody accords.Formulate with Purpose
Blue oils are more than just pretty colors. These azulene-rich oils offer powerful solutions for your skin and body care needs while creating alluring and memorable blends. Wondering how to add them to your beauty routine or your next big product? We’re always here to offer inspiration and answer your questions – just reach out!
