Natural Perfumery Basics

One of the most common ways to formulate a personal fragrance is by composing a balance of aromatic oils using three different categories based on oil evaporation (volatility) rates: Top, Middle and Base Notes. Top Note oils contain the smallest molecules and are the quickest to evaporate, Middle Note oils generally last a few hours, and Base Note oils that evaporate the slowest and contain the largest molecules can last for a day or more.

Please note that determining which 'notes' category an essential oil or absolute belongs to is highly subjective; some can be in more than one – for example, Juniper (Top and/or Middle Note) and Angelica (Middle and/or Base Note) – depending on the oil’s volatility when compared to the other oils in the perfume composition.

TOP/HEAD NOTES (~10-30% of the composition) introduce the perfume and are usually thin and mobile, with diffusive, sharp, penetrating, uplifting, refreshing, light, and/or fleeting attributes. Note that some of the following are used in small amounts, particularly the mint oils, due to their odor intensity.

Examples: Basil, Bergamot, Eucalyptus, Fir Needle (Douglas, Siberian), Galbanum*, Grapefruit, Juniper, Laurel Leaf, Lemon, Lime, Mandarin, Neroli, Orange, Palmarosa, Peppermint*, Petitgrain, Pine, Spearmint*, Tangerine, Verbena, Yuzu

* Extremely strong odor intensity – use in trace amounts.

MIDDLE/HEART NOTES (~30-50% of the composition) are usually full-bodied, complex, and most often comprise the theme or focal point of the perfume, while others modify / augment / complement / balance and/or harmonize with the other notes. Note that some of the following are used in small amounts, particularly the spice oils, due to their odor intensity.

Examples: Black Pepper*, Cardamom, Carnation, Cassie, Chamomile, Cinnamon*, Clary Sage, Clove*, Coffee, Cypress Leaf, Fir (Balsam), Geranium, Ginger, Helichrysum, Jasmine, Lavender, Lemongrass, Lotus, Melissa, Orange Blossom, Rose, Rosemary, Tuberose, Ylang Ylang

* Caution: skin irritant – use in very small amounts.

BASE/BOTTOM NOTES (~15-30% of the composition) are the foundation on which the perfume is built and are dense, heavy, strong, deep, tenacious, and supportive (some with fixative qualities). Note that some of the following are used in small amounts, usually as modifiers, due to their odor intensity.

Examples: Agarwood*, Amber Oil - Fossilized*, Ambrette, Amyris, Angelica*, Balsam of Peru, Cedarwood, Cistus, Cocoa, Elemi, Fir, Balsam Absolute, Frankincense, Labdanum, Liquidambar and Liquidambar Oleoresin, Myrrh, Oakmoss, Orris, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Tobacco*, Tonka Bean, Vanilla, Vetiver, Violet Leaf

* Extremely strong odor intensity – use in trace amounts.

FIXATIVES: The following are the more common aromatic oils with fixative value. For detailed information regarding fixatives, please follow this link to our blog article "Fixatives and Their Function in Natural Perfumery." Please note that some of these are used in small amounts, usually as modifiers, due to their odor intensity.

Examples: Agarwood*, Amber Oil - Fossilized*, Ambrette, Amyris, Angelica*, Balsam of Peru, Beeswax, Benzoin, Butter, Cedarwood, Cistus, Clary Sage, Coriander, Cypress Leaf, Fir, Balsam Absolute, Fir, Douglas, Frankincense, Galbanum*, Labdanum, Liquidambar and Liquidambar Oleoresin, Myrrh, Oakmoss, Orris, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Tonka Bean, Vanilla, Vetiver, Violet Leaf, Ylang Ylang

* Extremely strong odor intensity – use in trace amounts.

PERFUME TYPES / ESSENTIAL OIL CONCENTRATIONS:

Alcohol Based Perfume: 5-25% Essential Oil Concentration

Oil Based Perfume: 15-30% Essential Oil Concentration

Solid Perfume: 25-40% Essential Oil Concentration

MATERIALS TO MAKE AN ALCOHOL OR OIL BASED PERFUME:

1. Large, clean work surface located in a well-ventilated area, covered with paper towels on which to blend.

2. Essential oils, CO₂ extracts, and absolutes.

3. Four small beakers (about 25 ml, glass only) or shot glass for blending.

4. A small dark bottle (about 15 ml, glass only) with tight fitting cap in which to store and age your perfume concentrate.

5. Reusable plastic pipettes for transferring oils.

6. A tall glass with about ½ inch of vodka or grain alcohol to hold the used pipettes. After use, squeeze the bulb several times to swish the alcohol in and out of the pipettes to rinse; wash later in hot, soapy water and dry thoroughly for reuse.

7. Carrier or medium for the perfume concentrate: either 190 proof or higher grape or grain alcohol, or a fixed stable vegetal oil such as Jojoba Oil or Fractionated Coconut Oil – these are recommended since they do not oxidize (turn rancid). Please note that alcohol and fixed oils do not combine.

8. Fragrance tester strips (or unbleached coffee filters cut into long thin strips) to evaluate and compare aromas and a pen to label them.

9. Tissues / paper towels.

10. Pen and paper, and a Perfume Journal – very important for keeping detailed, accurate notes so you can replicate your creations.

TO MAKE AN ALCOHOL OR OIL BASED PERFUME:

1. Keep it simple! We recommend starting with a selection of no more than 3-9 oils.

2. Keep detailed notes and date each experiment in your journal, even those that are not successful.

3. To make a perfume concentrate (a blend of base, middle and top notes), work with the base note oils first (up to three). Start by evaluating the aroma of each base note oil on its own scent strip, then in different combinations by holding the scent strips together; decide what base note oils you want to work with (you may decide to use only one or two). Do the same with up to three middle note oils and up to three top note oils (again, one or two middle or top note oils may be what you choose).

4. Once you have decided which base, middle and top note oils to work with, have paper and pen ready for making notes.

Combine 2 drops of each of the chosen base note oils together in a small beaker or glass; smell the blend on a scent strip. Gently swirl the beaker or glass to help your oils combine with one another. You may decide to add an additional drop or more of any of the base note oils until you have a blend that you like, making sure to smell the effect of each new addition on a new scent strip. (Be sure to record the oils and how many drops of each you use!)
It may be helpful to dilute the blend to evaluate the aroma: transfer one drop of the blend to a clean small dish and add about 10 or more drops of either high-proof alcohol or vegetal oil, then stir together with the end of a scent strip. Evaluate the aroma of the diluted blend on the scent strip.)
Do the same with the chosen middle note oils, then the chosen top note oils.
Next, combine 2 drops of the combined base note oils with 2 drops of the combined middle note oils in a small beaker or glass; smell the blend on a scent strip. You may decide to add an additional drop or more of the combined base note oils and/or the combined middle note oils until you have a blend that you like, making sure to smell the effect of each new addition on a new scent strip.
When satisfied with the blend of base and middle note oils, add your combined top note oils one drop at a time, again smelling after each addition. Keep accurate notes.
When you have made a perfume concentrate with which you are satisfied, it will need to be increased in volume in order to make the finished perfume. An easy way to do this is to multiply the number of drops for every ingredient by the same number (for example, by 10). The more accurate method is to calculate the percentage of each oil in the concentrate in order to ascertain how much is needed for a larger amount.

5. Gently swirl the beaker or glass after each addition to help your oils combine with one another.

6. Remember, you can always add a drop but never subtract.

7. Before adding alcohol or carrier oil, the perfume concentrate needs to go through the process of aging – all those chemical constituents are ‘rearranging’ and harmonizing – without the carrier getting in the way of the process. The perfume concentrate should be stored in a labeled, dated and tightly capped dark glass bottle and kept in a cool, dark area. Allow your perfume concentrate to age for anywhere from a couple of weeks to months (the longer, the better). The aroma will change as it matures (sometimes slightly, sometimes more) and, if desired, you can fine tune the perfume concentrate as it ages. When the aroma stops changing and settles, the aging process is complete. Be sure to note any changes or additions in your journal!

8. Decide to what percentage the perfume will be diluted (ratio of perfume concentrate to alcohol or carrier oil) and combine the two together. Store and age the perfume for at least 2-3 weeks or more (again, until the perfume no longer changes) in a clean, tightly capped dark glass bottle and labeled with appropriate information.

9. If an alcohol perfume becomes cloudy, you may need to filter out any residual particulate matter (please refer to How do I filter non-dissolved materials, sediments, and/or cloudiness from my alcohol-based dilutions/perfumes? in our Frequently Asked Questions section).

If a fixed/vegetal oil perfume becomes cloudy, you may need to filter out any residual particulate matter (please refer to How do I filter non-dissolved materials, sediments, and/or cloudiness from my oil-based dilutions/perfumes? in our Frequently Asked Questions section). Or you can allow the perfume to sit undisturbed over a period of time until all the fine particulate matter has settled to the bottom, then decant the clear portion into a new container.

10. After aging, fine tuning and additional aging may be necessary; the length of aging depends on when you feel the perfume has finished integrating. Once completed, store the perfume in a labeled (dark glass is best) perfume bottle with a tight-fitting closure. To help ensure against degradation, keep away from heat and exposure to light.

11. Record perfume formula, date made, perfume name, and any notes in your perfume journal.

MATERIALS TO MAKE A SOLID PERFUME:

1. Large, clean work surface located in a well-ventilated area, covered with paper towels on which to blend.

2. Essential oils, CO₂ extracts, and absolutes.

3.Four small beakers (about 25 ml, glass only) or shot glasses for blending.

4. A small dark bottle (about 15 ml, glass only) with tight fitting cap in which to store and age your perfume concentrate.

5. Reusable plastic pipettes for transferring oils.

6. A small 2 ounce (60 ml) oven-proof glazed ‘casserole’ – a small porcelain pot with handle and pouring lip – for melting wax (CoorsTek casserole model 60058 recommended); flexible hot pad(s) for handling casserole when hot.

7. Beeswax pellets or grated beeswax and a carrier oil – Jojoba Oil or Fractionated Coconut Oil are the best oils and do not oxidize (turn rancid).

8. Conventional or countertop oven for melting wax (NO microwave ovens – wax will cook, not melt).

9. A tall glass with about ½ inch of vodka or grain alcohol to hold the used pipettes. After use, squeeze the bulb several times to swish the alcohol in and out of the pipettes to rinse; wash later in hot, soapy water and dry thoroughly for reuse.

10. Fragrance tester strips (or unbleached coffee filters cut into long thin strips) to evaluate and compare aromas and a pen to label them.

11. A small scale that weighs to tenths of a gram or less to weigh the amount of beeswax needed for each quarter-ounce finished perfume.

12. An empty quarter-ounce pot or jar (glass only!) with tight-fitting lid for the finished perfume.

13. Tissues / paper towels.

14. Pen and paper, and a Perfume Journal – very important for keeping detailed, accurate notes so you can replicate your creations.

TO MAKE A SOLID PERFUME:

1. Keep it simple! We recommend starting with a selection of no more than 3-9 oils.

2. Keep detailed notes and date of each experiment in your journal, even those that are not successful.

4. Once you have decided which base, middle and top note oils to work with, have paper and pen ready for making notes.

Combine 2 drops of each of the chosen base note oils together in a small beaker or glass; smell the blend on a scent strip. Gently swirl the beaker or glass to help your oils combine with one another. You may decide to add an additional drop or more of any of the base note oils until you have a blend that you like, making sure to smell the effect of each new addition on a new scent strip. (Be sure to record the oils and how many drops of each you use!)
It may be helpful to dilute the blend to evaluate the aroma: transfer one drop of the blend to a clean small dish and add about 10 or more drops of either high-proof alcohol or vegetal oil, then stir together with the end of a scent strip. Evaluate the aroma of the diluted blend on the scent strip.)
Do the same with the chosen middle note oils, then the chosen top note oils.
Next, combine 2 drops of the combined base note oils with 2 drops of the combined middle note oils in a small beaker or glass; smell the blend on a scent strip. You may decide to add an additional drop or more of the combined base note oils and/or the combined middle note oils until you have a blend that you like, making sure to smell the effect of each new addition on a new scent strip.
When satisfied with the blend of base and middle note oils, add your combined top note oils one drop at a time, again smelling after each addition. Keep accurate notes.
When you have made a perfume concentrate with which you are satisfied, it will need to be increased in volume in order to make the finished perfume. An easy way to do this is to multiply the number of drops for every ingredient by the same number (for example, by 10). The more accurate method is to calculate the percentage of each oil in the concentrate in order to ascertain how much is needed for a larger amount.

5. Gently swirl the beaker or glass after each addition to help your oils combine with one another.

6. Remember, you can always add a drop but never subtract.

7. The next step is to allow the perfume concentrate to go through the process of aging – all those chemical constituents are ‘rearranging’ and harmonizing. The perfume concentrate should be stored in a labeled, dated and tightly capped dark glass bottle and kept in a cool, dark area. Allow your perfume concentrate to age for anywhere from a couple of weeks to months (the longer, the better). The aroma will change as it matures (sometimes slightly, sometimes more) and, if desired, you can fine tune the perfume concentrate as it ages. When the aroma stops changing and settles, the aging process is complete. Be sure to note any changes or additions in your journal!

8. Now you are ready to make a solid perfume. To make a perfume at approximately 20-23% concentration, measure 5 ml Jojoba Oil or Fractionated Coconut Oil into a small glass beaker or shot glass and add 45-55 drops (depending on preference of aroma strength) of your perfume concentrate; swirl the mixture together. The amount of beeswax needed is 1.8 grams per 5 ml of Jojoba or other fixed oil with 45-55 drops of perfume concentrate. Higher amounts of perfume concentrate (55-65 drops) will require adjustments (slight increases) to the amounts of Jojoba or other fixed oil (add up to 0.5 ml) and beeswax (add up to 0.2 grams).

9. On a flat surface, place an open, clean quarter-ounce glass jar with a paper towel underneath.

10. Either in a countertop or conventional oven heated to 300 degrees F (150 degrees C), melt beeswax in the oven-proof casserole; it takes only 2-3 minutes. As soon as the wax finishes melting, use a hot pad to grasp the handle of the casserole (CAUTION: it will be very hot!) containing the melted wax and transfer to a wood cutting board or flat heat-proof surface.

11. Immediately pour the perfume concentrate and carrier oil mixture into the melted beeswax while using the handle of the casserole to carefully and gently swirl the contents to combine. As the oils are poured into the melted beeswax, the beeswax will begin to solidify but will melt again as you swirl the casserole.

12. Once the mixture is completely melted and combined, carefully pour it into the empty quarter-ounce glass jar; do not rest the casserole on the jar while pouring. (After cooling, and to avoid wax build-up in drain pipes, wipe casserole with a paper towel to remove leftover wax and oils before washing with hot soapy water.)

13. Allow the jar of perfume to sit undisturbed for about 15 minutes; when the perfume has solidified, put the lid on tight and add a label with the date and perfume name.

14. Record perfume formula, date made, perfume name, and any notes in your perfume journal.

HELPFUL MEASUREMENTS

1 ml = 30-50 drops, depending on viscosity and size of the drop: approx. 40-50 drops per ml for very mobile oils such as citrus peel oils and fir needle oils; approx. 30-40 drops per ml for more viscous (thicker) oils such as Vetiver and Sandalwood.

1 oz = 30 ml, or approx. 900-1500 drops per ounce, depending on viscosity and size of the drop.